Archive for the ‘Durham’ Category

Gardening, Sharing, Building Community: On-Line & In The Garden

Saturday, March 24th, 2012

In my experience, gardening is a motivating and compelling force to bring people together. Even with our time and attention constantly split and fractured, we still find ways to come together over gardening - perhaps particularly so over food gardening. While there are pros and cons to the ever increasing presence of technology in our lives, many gardeners have found that technology can be an incredible boon to our gardening knowledge and resources and connections. Photo: Members of Chico Garden Share Project at a project-hosted permaculture workshop “Making Bokashi and Creating a Winter Garden with Sheet Mulch”. Members shown include Agb biotics, Rosie, Wendy and Joseph Wiklund, Leslie Wilson Corsbie, Laurie Niles and Monica Bell. (more…)

Hedgerows for Habitat and Haven - in the Larger Landscape and in the Garden

Thursday, June 23rd, 2011

“For all our grumbling about wasteful and purposeless government spending, I look at this project and think to myself: ‘Now this is money well spent,’” said Emily Alma, co-owner with five others since 1987 of Riparia, an organic 12-acre farm in southwest Chico. She was referring to Riparia’s partnering with the Natural Resource Conservation Service (NRCS), a division of the United States Department of Agriculture. Photo: One of Fred Stolp’s established hedgerows running along a young walnut orchard.

Since late 2009, Riparia, with the help and under the guidance of the NRCS, has incorporated several conservation programs into the care of their land, including cover-cropping, and the planting and tending of riparian-forest buffer zones, native bunch grass cover areas, wildlife habitat management areas and hedgerows. Riparia is actively worked by two separate farmers who lease land from the Riparia partnership and all involved help to implement these conservation programs throughout the farm. The NRCS, according to their website www.nrcs.usda.gov, works to help agricultural producers – farmers and ranchers - conserve and improve their land’s natural resources including “soil, water, air, plants, and animals,” while also helping them to achieve their “aspirations” of making a living. The NRCS’s collaborations with agricultural landowners strive to make life better for us all - from the smallest of flowering plants to the widest expanse of orchard - from the smallest of insects to the largest of mammals - including us humans. Photo: Big-leaf maple seed clusters in one of Stolp’s hedgerows. (more…)

October in the Garden & The Monthly Calendar of Regional Gardening Events

Friday, October 1st, 2010

I have said this before: October in the Northstate garden is a sigh of relief. A deep cleansing breath. Summer’s heat has mostly subsided, fall rains are returning, but the garden is not yet done. Its colors are deepening and mellow; October to me is about this seasonal artistry and seasonal surprise. (more…)

The Ripe Promise of July in the Garden & Monthly Calendar of Regional Gardening Events

Thursday, July 1st, 2010

The first full moon of summer hung in our night skies last weekend - ripe with the promise of the coming full summer season. After our long, cool and damp spring, the North State is slowly heating up - but again nice and slow - the heat so far is being almost gentle with us. With the long spring and easy entry into summer, wildflowers generally associated with spring on the valley flower have given us an extended show, we have enjoyed spring vegetables a little longer as well, and the summer vegetables are are also beginning to show their ripe promise. I have not had a ripe tomato from my garden yet, but my green ones give me much to look forward to and my basil, cucumbers and squash are coming in nicely. Photo: Native Collinsia in bloom in Upper Bidwell Park, late June.

In the edible farm and garden report David Grau of Valley Oak tool and the Chico Organic Gardening Class series writes that “July is the time to work up soil for planting your early winter crops out in August. He points out that cool season crops like broccoli, cabbage, beets, spinach, and onions often go to seed instead of producing a crop in our climate often because they were planting too late the fall before. We don’t naturally think of planting cool season vegetables in July or especially August, but that is the best time. September is too late. Transplants should be planted in early to mid August here in the north valley. The plants need a lot of sunlight to size up before the days turn short and cool in October and November. If you get your plants in late, they will overwinter, but in the spring when they start to grow, they go directly to seed instead of producing nice big heads of broccoli. Broccoli raab is grown for the leaves and small florets, but you won’t get much if the plant is put in late.” Photo: Ripening plums, late June. (more…)

Where the Wild (and Cultivated) Orchids Bloom: An Interview with Donna and Dick Murrill of Durham

Friday, June 25th, 2010

The emails started a month ago: the buds are looking close. Then two weeks ago: some are open up Caribou Road outside of Oroville – but peak bloom is still a ways off. And now – I’ve seen a few for myself. As gardeners and plant lovers, there is something so sweet, if a bit anxious, about the waiting period just before the much anticipated blooming of a favorite plant. It’s the same for rose lovers, camellia lovers, and so on. But right now, is the orchid lovers’ moment in the North State. The wild orchids are now blooming, and the bloom period will continue to unfold over the summer months as the high country warms up to the season and catches up to the valley floor. Orchids are happy show offs (like most flowers) - even the more demure ones, such as the native stream orchid. If you are willing to venture out to them along creeks and rivers and water falls, you will not be disappointed. Photo: Stream orchid (Epipactis gigantea) along the Big Chico Creek.

Orchid lovers rank among the most enthusiastic of the single-plant people out there. And with good reason, orchids, or the botanical family Orchidaceae, represent the largest group of flowering plants on earth. The group comprises many genera and literally hundreds of thousands of orchid species grow in the wild or have been hybridized by growers around the world. Most native orchids thrive in the world’s tropical region, but every continent except Antarctica has indigenous orchid species. As usual, we here in northern California are lucky to have quite a few – 30 plus species of orchid are native to California. Photo: Stream orchid (Epipactis gigantea) along the Big Chico Creek.

In terms of natives, Julie Nelson, Forest Botanist for the Shasta-Trinity National Forest, tells me that “Native orchids can be divided into two general habitat groups–wetland species and upland species. The wetland species more reliably come up in the same place every year, in my experience, and are leafy, photosynthesizing organisms. Good examples are the rein orchids, Habenaria spp., that are common in wet meadows in Lassen Park, and the Eddys (and many other places.) Also, stream orchid, Epipactis gigantea, which grows with its feet in the water along streams, including the upper Sacramento, the upper Trinity River, Chico Creek, North Fork Feather River, ect. In the valley, good places to see both stream orchids and California ladyslipper include multiple trails, such as the Feather Falls trail, off of Caribou Road, which is off of highway 70 outside of Oroville.’

“Upland species tend to show up more sporadically and be harder to find; seeing them is always a pleasant surprise! One group of upland orchids has evolved into a specialized way of life called mycotrophy, where the plant’s roots are connected to a fungus that provides nutrition, so the orchid no longer needs any green leaves to manufacture energy. Here’s a link to a description of mycotrophic plants–not just orchids, but several other taxonomic groups have evolved in this direction: http://www.sarracenia.com/faq/faq5980.html ‘

“In montane mixed conifer forest, you can expect to encounter mycotrophic orchids such as the phantom or ghost orchid (Cephalanthera austiniae–dead white all over), several kinds of coralroot (Corallorhiza spp), and also leafy orchids with greenish flowers, growing in older forests with plenty of organic material on the forest floor. Most common is the rattlesnake orchid, Goodyera oblongifolia (I have a mnemonic device for the genus name–the leaves look like they have white tire tracks down the center) and species of Piperia.’ Photo: Stream orchid (Epipactis gigantea) along the Big Chico Creek.

“Several orchid species are relatively rare, including Lady’s slipper orchids (Cypripedium montanum, C. californicum and C. fasciculatum) and are of conservation concern.’

Native orchids do not transplant well and SHOULD NOT be collected for the home garden.”

Candace Miller of the Dunsmuir Botanical Gardens writes: “I recently noticed that the native, terrestrial orchid, Goodyera oblongifolia (Rattlesnake plantain), has moved into one of the DBG flower beds. The plant is still small, so probably won’t be blooming until next year. We do have Platanthera dilatata v. leucostachys (Sierra bog orchid) blooming along the river in the City Park. It normally blooms in June, but many blooms have been delayed because of our late spring. Both of these orchids have small white flowers along the infloresence stem.

Other native, terrestrial orchids that bloom in Siskiyou County are Calyso bulbosa (Fairy slipper) a small plant with a very showy flower, Listera convallariodes (Broad-lipped twayblade), Piperia elongata (Dense-flowered rein orchid), Cephalanthera austinae (Phantom orchid), and Cypripedium montanum (Mountain lady’s slipper). You can find nice pictures and more info about these at Penn Martin’s website www.shastawildflowers.com.

If you can’t get out to see the wild ones, there are plenty to grow and enjoy at home, as Donna and Dick Murrill of Durham can attest. The two of them have been growing orchids as a hobby (or obsession?) since the early 1980s and currently have two greenhouses full of orchids of all kinds, shapes and sizes at the back of their Durham garden. (They also have several tiered light trays throughout their home….but who’s counting?) “We might have 1500 plants?” Donna says, trying to do a quick calculation in her head when I ask. “Dick is the hybridizer, he loves that part – I am the grower and pot washer.” Which with 1500 plants, two greenhouses and the needs of orchids to be watered, fed and repotted about once a year, “pot washer” is no small task. Photo: Dick Murrill left, with an orchid of his own crossing and breeding, and an orchid seed pod which was produced from a cross Dick made of two orchids. He is waiting patiently for the pod to mature so he can grow the seeds along and see what he gets. Orchid seeds are like dust and are some of the smallest flowering plant seeds known.

Donna has been a gardener since her childhood in La Mesa - just about the only time she can remember not gardening was when she was too busy to do so while in college. Dick grew up in the Sacramento area and even during their busiest years with small children and careers - she a microbiologist and lab director working in public health and he a dentist, they gardened and enjoyed their plants. It was on a trip to Puerto Rico in the early 1980s, hoping to learn more about the African violets, that Donna and Dick were bitten by the orchid fever. They just celebrated their 49th wedding anniversary and the orchid passion does not seem to be waning. Photo: Donna Murrill in one of her backyard greenhouses.

Key conditions needed for successful orchid growing include: sufficient year-round high quality light, proper watering, high levels of humidity, sufficient fresh airflow and nutrients. Most orchids are epiphytes and many wild ones live on a woody host, generally the bark of a living or dead tree. Orchids are not parasitic and do not take nutrients or otherwise sap the energy of their host. Home growers of orchids try to mimic this kind of environment. Donna stresses that while getting your conditions right is important, it is also not as difficult as it might seem and most orchids will put up with a pretty wide range of circumstances. Photo: One of the Murrill’s Phalaeonopsis.

Light: Most plants want to be within a foot or so of a well-lit window – east, south or west facing. They do not want to be in the direct sun, but near by.

Water: Water an orchid by running fresh water over the planting medium – generally bark – until thoroughly wet. Once wet, let any excess water drain completely. Orchids do not like to sit in water. Once you have had your orchid(s) for a while, you will have a better sense of how frequently to water – but close observation is the best indicator. When the bark around the plant’s roots seems completely dry, it is time to water again. Donna generally needs to water 2 or more times a week in summer and less (every three weeks?) in winter. Although some plants she hand waters more frequently in both seasons. Photo: One of the Murrill’s Phragmipedium or slipper orchids.

Humidity: Most orchids want a humidity level of around 40%, which can be achieved in many cases by proper watering and then grouping plants together so that they transpire humidity to one another. You can also place your plants onto gravel-filled trays, which you keep filled with water. You need to make sure, however, that the water stays below the top of the gravel so that the roots of your orchids are never sitting in water. Keep the trays and gravel clean.

In our climate, some of the Murrill’s orchids stay outside under cover year round, such as her Cymbidiums orchids. Others, such as the Dendrobiums and some of her Phaleonopsis get to go outside in dappled light in summer and they get sprayed off with a hose.

Air-Flow: With high levels of humidity and plants placed closer together, pests and disease can become an issue. Increased air-flow and good ventilation will help you to avoid these problems. Sometimes a small fan placed near your orchids is all you need. If you think one of your plants has an issue, seek expert advice on an appropriate pesticide or fungicide and always follow the precautions and application instructions.

Fertilizer: The Murrills have a fertilizer proportioner built into their greenhouse irrigation systems. Many commercial orchid fertilizers are available at most good nurseries. Most fertilizers are dissolved in water and then poured over the plants – leaves and all – after a regular watering. The Murrill’s fertilize their plants weekly, making sure to give them a good flush with water after so that salts do not build up.

Temperature: Orchids are generally happy at normal room temperature – between 50 and 80 degrees farenheit.

Donna and Dick emphasize the importance of prevention when it comes to disease and pests: Buy your plants and supplies from a reputable source.

Finally, be patient and have fun - it is the challenge that keeps it interesting and that much more satisfying when all goes well.

North Valley Orchid Society:

“The next North Valley Orchid Society meeting will be held on Tuesday, July 13, 2010 at 7:30 pm in the Arts and Crafts Room at the Chico Arts and Recreation Department Community Center located at 545 Vallombrosa Ave. in Chico. This is a new meeting place for us! Check out the link at the bottom of this email to see the facility and get directions.

Alan Koch will present the program,” Orchid Growing 101 and Compact Cattleyas”. Cattleyas are what most people think of when they hear the word orchid. Producing large and fragrant flowers with vibrant colors that are commonly used in corsages, Cattleyas are a popular choice for beginners and experts alike. These plants are very sturdy and can take a lot of abuse from those who tend to forget to water. They are also tolerant of several temperature ranges. Miniature Cattleyas are also available, which are great for those with limited space. Alan will also be giving tips on repotting, fertilizing, watering, pest control, and general orchid care.

Alan Koch owns and operates Gold Country Orchids where he specializes in miniature and compact Cattleyas. Alan started growing orchids in 1969 with 3 Cymbidiums given to him by an aunt. While in college, he became interested in other orchids and discovered many would grow outdoors in Southern California. He has moved five times as his orchid obsession has led to the need for more growing space. With the last move, he purchased 10 acres of land in Lincoln, California for his 300,000 orchids. He is recognized as an expert in the Brazilian Cattleya alliance and a trend setter in miniature Cattleya breeding. Alan has been published in the Orchid Digest, and the American Orchid Society magazines. He has also been published in the proceedings of the World Orchid Conference. He is an internationally known speaker. He is a past member of the AOS Judging Committee, and the Research Committee, as well as an Accredited Judge and is Vice-chair and Training Coordinator for the California Sierra Nevada Judging Center. Alan also served two terms on the Orchid Digest Executive Committee and Board of Directors, and is one of the current directors, as well as a Trustee for the AOS.

Come with your questions for Alan. We look forward to seeing you at our new location! Please join us. Refreshments will be served.
For additional information, contact Tricia Edelmann @ 891-4224 or Erin Pelfrey [nvos2010@gmail.com].

Directions: www.chicorec.com/Parks–Facilities/Community-Centers/CARD-Community-Center/index.html”

Other internet Orchid sites of note:

http://www.orchidsocietyofcalifornia.com/

http://www.aos.org/AM/Template.cfm?Section=Orchid_Information

Several books are devoted to native orchids, including these two that are especially useful for our area Julie Nelson told me, which Lyon Books in Chico can order for you:

Brown, Paul Martin. 2006. Wild Orchids of the Pacific Northwest and Canadian Rockies. University Press of Florida; includes southern Oregon so has many orchid species that also grow in northern California.

Coleman, Ronald. 2002. The Wild Orchids of California. Comstock Books.


Jewellgarden.com’s newest note cards are ready to enjoy at local fine shops near you - see Jewellgarden Shop for more info. As spring turns to summer and summer to fall, look for Edibles in the Garden blank journals, note cards featuring fruit and nuts and squash, and 2011 calendars. A portion of all sales of the Edibles in the Garden note cards goes to Slow Food Shasta Cascade and the many projects it supports. All of Jewellgarden.com’s cards are printed in Chico by Quadco printing using 100% recycled paper and vegetable-based ink. Yum.

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To submit plant/gardening related events/classes to the Jewellgarden.com on-line Calendar of Regional Gardening Events, send the pertinent information to me at: Jennifer@jewellgarden.com

Did you know I send out a weekly email with information about upcoming topics and gardening related events? If you would like to be added to the mailing list, send an email to Jennifer@jewellgarden.com.

In a North State Garden is a weekly Northstate Public Radio and web-based program celebrating the art, craft and science of home gardening in Northern California and made possible in part by the Gateway Science Museum - Exploring the Natural History of the North State and on the campus of CSU, Chico. In a North State Garden is conceived, written, photographed and hosted by Jennifer Jewell - all rights reserved jewellgarden.com. In A North State Garden airs on Northstate Public Radio Saturday mornings at 7:34 AM Pacific time and Sunday morning at 8:34 AM Pacific time. Podcasts of past shows are available here. Weekly essays are also posted on anewscafe.com a regional news source that is simultaneously universal and positively North State.

Growing Up: Kiwi in the Garden

Friday, November 20th, 2009

As the leaves fall and winter settles in for its annual tenure - frosty and spare, the structure of the garden becomes more apparent than ever. Herbaceous perennials, shrubs and trees disrobe themselves of the bio- mass of foliage they have carried all summer and fall, and the proportions of each plant and the garden itself shifts. This is a moment when you value the skeletal silhouette of a tree or the graceful arch of a vine scrambling across an arbor or fence. It’s also when you might look around the garden and realize that most of your garden perhaps is on just one plane - the horizontal. With the help of this minimalist view of the garden, you may notice areas where you would like to add some punctuation - some verticality. Trees are one way to add verticality; vines are another. Photo: Kiwi vine leaves.

When it comes to vines, you might think climbing roses, clematis, trumpet or grape vines. Or you could think: kiwi. Photo: Kiwi vines twining up at the Hoptowit orchard in Durham. (more…)

Mixing it up: The Art of the Mixed Border with Christy Santos

Friday, May 29th, 2009

Sometimes as a garden lover you just want the sight of a beautiful garden – that sweeping view of plants and space and color and form all working together to create that ephemeral thing we call a beautiful garden. Could be a cottage garden, could be a Japanese garden, could even be a kitchen garden – doesn’t matter – it just has to be lovely to look at in your eyes. Yes, we want healthy soil, yes, we want healthy plants, yes, we want sustainable and regionally appropriate gardens, but let’s face it – what most of us gardeners are after is pure beauty. Which in gardens as in people, is much more than skin deep. Photo: A view down a long Mixed Border at Skylake Gardens in Durham. The border works together as a whole unit with colors and shapes repeated through the trees, shrubs and herbaceous perennials that Christy has chosen. The most noticeable repetitions change throughout the year as different combinations of plants come to the fore, and then fade back. The rounded Carolina Cherry shrubs form the protective and aesthetic backdrop for the border.

One sure way to get that killer Cover-of-a Glossy-Garden-Magazine effecy is with a well-designed Mixed Border. A Mixed Border can be a gardener’s best friend in terms of garden design elements. Done well – it will give you pause for admiration over and over again throughout the gardening year.

Mixed Borders are perhaps a bit more difficult to implement than glossy magazine photos of good ones might suggest, but they are also not so difficult that you should not consider one in your next garden, or your next garden make-over. Where an Herbaceous Border relies almost completely on herbaceous perennials (flowering plants that die back to the ground in winter, but return again each spring) and is far and away strongest in the peak summer months, and an Annual Bedding relies on fresh annual plantings each summer, or even two or three times a summer, a Mixed Border is just that: a section of the garden which consists of a mix of all kinds of garden plants, including trees, shrubs, sub-shrubs, vines, perennials annuals and bulbs, that are designed to work together as a whole. Photo: A small planting combination in the formal White Garden and patio area just off the back of Gail Brown’s house. This garden was planned not only to be predominantly white: featuring white flowers or white foliage, but to also be especially fragrant. The structural backbone trees and shrubs include a white treed-up Wisteria, and white-edged holly leafed Osmanthus, and many, many white roses. Here white Watsonia is center and pops beside the red foliage of a Berberis.

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Edible Landscaping: How to Get Growing the Things you Want to Eat!

Friday, April 3rd, 2009

Even though many of us in the North State can and do work in our vegetable gardens year-round, March, April and May are such traditional vegetable seed and seedling start times that I have been focusing a lot of my energy on my raised vegetable beds these past few weeks. Finishing up the winter-grown veggies like bok choy, winter lettuce and the last of the bulbing fennel (which was delicious braised in a light chicken stock), gave me room for carrot, beets, spring lettuce, snap pea seeds as well as potatoes. I have just enough room left to put out my tomato plants and basil seeds when the night temperatures stay reliably above 50 degrees. Photo: Bulbing fennel.

Vegetable gardening, growing fruit and nut trees, berry vines, etc. - any gardening you do that results in an edible item, is often termed Edible Landscaping. I think the use of this “fancy” term was introduced in order to 1. Make it clear that you’re talking about gardening for food production, and 2. Suggest that vegetable and fruit gardening is every bit as attractive in the landscape as “ornamental” flower and tree-type gardening.
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